Maintaining your typewriter

There are a number of things you can do to ensure that your machine provides years of reliable service.  Here they are, in no specific order.

DUST.  All machines of all kinds detest dirt.  Your typewriter is no different; the effects of both environmental dust, and eraser crumb deposits, will quickly make themselves obvious.  The typewriter should be covered when not in use.  It is possible to find typewriter covers for standard machines, although these are becoming less common; once you have one, it is easy to figure out that it is sewn together using exactly three pieces of fabric or synthetic material.  I actually have made some of my own, very simply, from thin plastic sheeting used for protecting items during shipping. Once you own one actual cover, it is easily possible to make patterns from it, cut the parts out of whole fabric, and assemble them either by hand sewing or by sewing machine.  Portable typewriters are no different; if the machine sits out, cover it up when it's not in action.  Many machines can be operated while still in  or on the case bottom; this makes reapplication of the lid for dustproofing quick and easy. 

Keep dust and dirt out of the working parts of the machine, especially the type bar segment.  Brush this out after each day's use; also brush out the carriage rails -- be sure to move the carriage all the way to each end and get all of it.  The exterior can be cleaned with very mild liquid dish soap, which is also what I use to remove fingerprints applied accidentally during ribbon changes. 

Oil of any kind is usually NOT recommended for the type bar segment, as this wil have a short-term effect of improvement, but long-term will attract further dust, creating a gooey sticky gunk that'll be worse than the original deposit.  Some people, including myself, have used the very lightest machine oil on this with some good results, only on machines that do NOT EVER sit out.  You can also use this oil on any parts indicated in an owner's manual, or a service manual.  The lightest sewing machine oil available is what I purchase, and I use it sparingly.  Once you've lubricated various parts inside a machine, allow it to sit on a multi-page stack of newspaper for 48 hours so that any excess drains out / drips off, through the bottom and onto the paper.  (Note that for unit-body, or fully enclosed machines, this will not help; in those cases, I use the tip of a twisted paper towel to get the oil right below the lubrication points.)

OPERATION.  This is the second most important thing; you cannot throw the carriage on many portables and expect the machine to survive.  They're not to be banged on.  Yes, the proper finger action is a staccato rap, made without the finger following the keytop all the way down, but this is quite different from pounding.  Use a sensible degree of restraint in all areas of operation (as mentioned, particularly carriage return) and lifetime will be extended.  It is also important not to overspeed so as to frequently jam type bars together.  While many machines have a jam-clear feature installed (usually operated off the margin release key) this is not intended to be used often; misaligned type is the normal result.  If your machine tends to jam up in this way, adjust the touch regulator, adjust your pace, or both until you type jam-free.  This will also add to appreciation of individual machines and designs in that you'll find the "real speed" of that given machine in the hands of a given typist.

IMPRESSION QUALITY  Many modern typists are finding the non-laser-printer quality unsatisfactory regarding this machine or that.  Make sure the type face is clean; clean it after every day's use.  Use a stiff brush -- which, as mentioned elsewhere, was normally included with every machine sold and can sometimes still be found in the case.  Use of this method totally prevents the too-late method of using solvent to clean the type face.  Resist the temptation to use a metal pick, or the tip of a knife or small scissors, to remove firm deposits from the type face.  If anything, a natural wood toothpick is the most that should be employed.  Also, get the best ribbon you can find but don't over-use it.  Some machines with worn or flat rollers will type better if you use the old-fashioned technique of always inserting two pieces of paper in the machine.  This was done by many to save the platen, and while this method may have been of questionable result when the machines were new, it sometimes helps now.  If the ribbon is becoming worn, or a bit too dry, replace it.

STORAGE   Quite simply, when a portable typewriter is to be stored, the carriage locking device, if equipped, is to be used.  There are a number of machines which do not have this device because the case lid both releases the carriage release and holds the carriage.  Only a few have no locking device and no lid restraint; for example, old CONSUL portables orignally had rubber caps that fit over the platen knobs and which gave the lid a snug fit, totally preventing carriage movement.  Of all the machines of this kind that I own, only one of them still has the caps, so that some other provision must be engineered in the others.  Do not store them in any position except on the back or on the bottom; never store them upside down.  For longer-term storage, locate and toss in a dessicant pack to absorb moisture and prevent molding and rusting.

These tips are not all-inclusive, but are the ones I pay the most attention to.  If you do just these things, you'll greatly improve the service your machine gives.